Alternative Torres del Paine Hiking W Trek

There are two Chile national parks to visit today: Bernardo O’Higgins & Torres del Paine National Parks.

We’re up with the larks for a 0700 transfer from your Puerto Natales hotel to the town’s port.

Note: Passengers must spend the night before at a Puerto Natales hotel (not included). Travellers joining from El Calafate must take the public bus (ticket included) the day before the tour starts (Thursday) to be in place for the early morning transfer.

After boarding, we sail from Last Hope Sound through a scenic fjord to the impressive Serrano and Balmaceda glaciers. These icy giants of Patagonia offer a wonderful introduction to the region.

Next, it’s time for a leg stretch to prepare us for the Torres del Paine W trek. It’s an undulating walk through southern beech forests called Nothofagus forests. These enchanting woodlands abound with flora and fauna to keep us enthralled en route to Lago Brush.

The rustic campsite at Lago Brush brings you into close contact with the Patagonian spirit. Drink in the panoramic views of Tyndall Glacier and the Torres del Paine massif.

Accommodation is in two-person shared cabins or domes. Lago Brush has basic latrine-style toilets and cold-water wash facilities.

Domes at Lago Brush.

Approximate walking time:       4 hrs

Distance:                                       14 km / 9 miles

Meals included:                          Lunch, dinner.

Perhaps you gazed at the stars, spotted horse riders, or found peace among the trees. However you spent your time at Lago Brush, we leave camp after breakfast to find our Patagonia trekking legs once more.

We walk about 8 miles/13km today, taking in the picturesque Lago del Jote and admiring the changing faces of the Río Serrano throughout. It takes around four or five hours to emerge from this stretch to Villa Serrano, a convenient pick-up point.

Here, a van awaits us and will whisk us along to the delightful Hotel Lago Grey for rooms and victuals for the night. Hotel Lago Grey lies at the confluence of Lago Grey and Río Serrano; once more, our accommodation serves up beautiful views.

We enjoy a night of comforts and recharging our energy before we set off on the Torres del Paine W trek in earnest.

Standard rooms with private bathrooms at Hotel Lago Grey.

Approximate walking time:       4-5 hrs

Distance:                                       13 km / 8 miles

Meals included:                           Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner.

Following a relaxed breakfast, we must be ready to board the boat to Refugio Grey at 0900.

We’ll sail for around an hour in Lago Grey, always nearing the spectacular Glacier Grey. Radiantly blue icebergs bob around in the turquoise-grey waters of Lago Grey. Look up, and Paine Grande mountain and other snowy peaks line the horizon, wearing green skirts of native forests. With luck, calving glaciers may crash into the waters as we sail past.

We disembark at Refugio Grey and walk towards the Glacier Grey lookout point. After filling up on the views, we’ll turn on our heels and trek the rippling path alongside Lago Grey to Paine Grande Refugio, where we camp.

Note: Due to the temperamental weather of the region, boat trips across Lago Grey may occasionally be restricted or cancelled during the shoulder season of October and April. If so, we will offer you an alternative excursion within the park.

Dinner and camping at Refugio Paine Grande shared bathroom facilities.

Approximate walking time:       4 hrs

Distance:                                     11 km / 7 miles

Maximum Altitude:                  244 m / 800 ft

Meals included:                         Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner.

The Torres del Paine W trek gets serious today with a challenging, rewarding, and satisfying day among the park’s finest mountains. First up is the beautiful Lago Nordenskjöld, whose shores accompany us to the French Valley’s entrance.

We cross the hanging bridge that marks the start of a stiff pull into the heart of the Paine Massif. The trick is keeping your eyes on the ever-changing mountains flanking our ascent. The trees thin eventually, revealing the French Valley’s impressive geological formation.

The evocative names tell half the story of this breathtaking area. This is Espada (Sword), Catedral (Cathedral), Hoja (Blade), Máscara (Mask), and Aleta de Tiburón (Shark’s Fin). Many marvel at the magnificent Fortaleza (Fortress). We’ll enjoy a picnic in the Valley to gather our strength for the return from whence we came.

Upon seeing the hanging bridge again, we know our turn eastward approaches. Once more hugging Lago Nordenskjöld, our destination is an hour or two away; Los Cuernos (The Horns) or Francés (French Valley) campsite, where we will have dinner and spend the night. Los Cuernos is on the shore of the lake, while Francés offers views of the lake. Reservations are made in advance and depend on availability.

Los Cuernos or Francés campsite, shared bathroom facilities.

Approximate walking time:       10 hrs

Distance:                                     26 km / 16 miles

Maximum Altitude:                  686 m / 2,250 ft

Meals included:                         Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner.

Our good friend Lago Nordenskjöld once more guides us through the wilds of Patagonia. Stop to admire the varied flora and fauna today, plus views of Los Cuernos, or the horns, that sit atop the grey granite of the Paine mountains.

These majestic black horn-like peaks are slate and look like crowns upon the granite beneath.

There’s plenty of Andean up and down on today’s hike. The reward is the famous eco camp Patagonia which awaits, nestled in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park.

The eco camp has front-seat views of the majestic Torres del Paine. Summer months see sunsets around 11 pm, affording plenty of daylight to admire the surrounding Patagonian steppe of treeless grasslands, guanacos, and snow-peaked mountains on the horizon.

Accommodation at eco camp.

Approximate walking time:       4-5hrs

Distance:                                     12 km / 7.5 miles

Maximum Altitude:                  244 m / 800 ft

Meals included:                    Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner.

Our final objective is the most famous hike in Torres del Paine National Park. That’s the trek to the base of the Towers of Paine.

We leave the eco camp and turn into Asencio Valley. Today’s walk occurs among beech forests, rivers, and mountain ridges.

Ascent is steady most of the way until we reach the steep moraine that seems to protect the Towers. It may take an hour or so to pick our way through the boulders that lead to the cherished view of the three gigantic and iconic monoliths that gave the park its name.

The Towers rise majestically before us eventually, with its beautiful glacial lake visible below. Lunch? Why not, in this mountain paradise? We return down the same trail through the Ascencio Valley to the eco camp for a well-deserved dinner.

Dinner and accommodation at the eco camp.

Approximate walking time:        9 hrs

Distance:                                     22 km / 14 miles

Maximum Altitude:                   914 m / 3,000 ft

Meals included:                          Breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner.

It’s the end of our Torres del Paine Hiking W Trek. Board an early morning vehicle and head to one of four final destinations:

• Punta Arenas Airport (fixed arrival time at 1.30 pm)
• Punta Arenas (arriving 2 pm), Australis cruise at 3 pm.
• Puerto Natales (arriving 1030am approx.), airport, hotel, Navimag, or Skorpios
• El Calafate (Argentina): Private transfer (5.30 am approx.) to Cerro Castillo to catch the AM public bus to El Calafate, arriving at 3 pm approx. Bus and transfer included in tour price).

Meals included:                 Breakfast and packed lunch.

For most people, Patagonia evokes a vast, windblown plateau, jagged mountains and the life of the gauchos.

The steppe that occupies much of southern South America is only one aspect of a magical region, jam-packed with amazing and contrasting landscapes.

Patagonia (latitudes 40°-55°, approximately) embraces a vast portion of southern Chile and Argentina, from the Rio Colorado in the north, to Tierra del Fuego in the south.

For convenience, we have divided the region into three zones: the Lakes District of northern Patagonian, central Patagonia and southern Patagonia.

Southern Patagonia (latitudes 49° to 55°), encompassing the southern Andes of Chile and Argentina plus Tierra del Fuego, has an altogether more vertical aspect than the rest of Patagonia.

As the continent tapers towards its southern point, the Andes take on new characteristics and offer some truly impressive panoramas.

Much of southern Patagonia is characterized by virgin landscapes where man’s hand has either not been present or, because of the scale of the landscapes, goes almost unnoticed. To the west of the semi-arid Patagonian plateau, mile-high granite spires – e.g. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy in Argentina and the Torres and Cuernos del Paine in Chile – rise abruptly from the Andean foothills, while vast blue glaciers, fringed by southern beech forest, gouge out thevalleys below.

At the heart of these magnificent landscapes lies the South Patagonian Ice Field, an utterly remote icy wilderness spanning hundreds of kilometers, whose glaciers – including the Perito Moreno and Upsala – are tens of kilometres long by severalkilometers wide.

Also characteristic of the southern Patagonian Andes are its turquoise, iceberg-filled lakes. To the west lies the southern portion of the Chilean Archipelago, comprising snow-capped islands and fjords.

Across the Magellan Straits from mainland Patagonia lies Tierra del Fuego which, like the rest of Patagonia, is divided between Argentina and Chile.

The north and east of Tierra del Fuego is flat, but flanking the Beagle Channel in the south, the tail end of the Andes provide very dramatic mountain scenery.

The Lake District (latitudes 40° to 45°) or the Araucania, is a region of dramatic conical volcanoes, evergreen, high-canopy forests and, of course, lakes.

It straddles the Chile-Argentine border, and also takes in Chiloe island, in the extreme north of the Chilean Archipelago. This region stretches from Temuco in the north to Chiloe in the south.

Central Patagonia (latitudes 45 to 49) is one of South America’s best-kept secrets. The vast wilderness area can be divided in two:

• The dry band of Andean foothills and wind-blown plateau lying on the Argentine side of the Andes. This remote area is traversed north to south by a gravel highway known as the Ruta Cuarenta (Highway 40).
• The Chilean portion to the west of the Andean watershed, often referred to as the Careterra Austral (after the little-used gravel highway that crosses it from north to south).

This huge region, embracing the sparsely-inhabited southern Araucaria and Aisén Region, features temperate rainforests, snow-peaks (often extinct volcanoes), lakes and, to the west, the Chilean Archipelago: a labyrinth of fjords and mountain-islands. This, the Chilean portion of central Patagonia, boasts the northernmost of Patagonia’s many giant, sea-level glaciers.

The San Raphael Glacier, probably this region’s most famous landmark, is an immense hanging glacier whose seracs calve into an iceberg-filled lagoon.

Find out more about Patagonia with our blog about its wildlife.

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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Overview

When planning for the varied climatic conditions encountered in Paine, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system.  It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers. Layers should have the following qualities:

1. Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat):
2. Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
3. Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.

We also carry an extensive first aid kit on all trips, but these are generally for emergencies only.

Trek with a small backpack only

Your main suitcase/large rucksack stays at the Eco camp (which is near Torres Refugio) and where you arrive on Day 1.

Through the trip, you carry a daypack (about 30 litres) for camera, coat, lunch, water, etc, on a daily basis.

You will given a small duffel bag at the first eco-camp, within which you put clean clothes, books etc. Porters carry this duffel for you, so that it is awaiting for you on arrival at each refugio.

Below is a more detailed kit list.

Detailed kit list

• 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax) and 2 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
• Trekking boots – should be well broken-in, waterproof and provide good ankle support.
• Trainers/sandals for city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.
• Base layer leggings (1 pair).
• Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Trekking trousers (2 pairs).
• Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.
• Thermal base layer shirts (2).
• Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
• Shirt/t-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun
• Fleece jacket or similar (1).
• Warm jacket (down or synthetic). For camp and upper slopes.
• Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.
• Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
• Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
• Sunglasses with UV filter.
• Scarf for cold.
• Bandanna – to protect neck from strong sun.
• Light inner gloves
• Warm gloves, e.g. fleece, and outer waterproof gloves or mittens (1 pair)
• Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).
• Daypack (at least 30 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• Large rucksack or suitcase.
• Pair of telescopic trekking poles.
• Water bottle (2 litres approx.) & purification tablets.
• Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, general antibiotics (ask your GP), after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
• Insect repellent.
• Towel & wash-kit.
• Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
• Toilet paper (1)
• Sunscreen (factor 30+) and lip salve.
• Head-lamp (plus spare bulb and batteries).
• Penknife.
• Travel alarm clock.
• Plastic bags – ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
• Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
• Book, e-book, mp3 player/ipod or other to help pass the time,
• Binoculars.
• Spanish/English phrasebook.
• Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All non-personal trekking camping gear e.g. tents, cutlery etc is provided.

Miscellaneous others

• Money belt.
• Passport.
• U.S. dollars cash, mixed-denomination notes, undamaged and unmarked.
• ATM cash/credit card.
• Any inoculation certificates.
• Personal & medical insurance certificates.
• Presents e.g. Postcards from home.
• Comfortable clothes for travel, smart clothes for night life.

We strongly suggest that everyone planning to travel to Patagonia visits their local doctor/travel clinic prior to departure for the latest vaccination information.

Recommended vaccinations

• Up-to-date diphtheria and polio.
• Tetanus or tetanus booster. (These three are effective for ten years.)
• ‘Havrix’ for Hepatitis A. The course of two injections protects you for ten years. Gamma globulin is cheaper butless effective.
• Typhoid vaccine is recommended by some doctors although it will not provide total protection and being careful about what you eat and drink is your best defence. It is given in two shots, four weeks apart and lasts for three years. Unless at exceptional risk, people over the age of 35 who have received four or more courses of typhoid immunisation need no more.
• A pre-exposure rabies vaccination is worth considering if you are going to be in contact with animals or morethan 24 hours away from a reliable source of vaccine. Hikers are at some risk from rural dogs, certain of which carry rabies, and those visiting coastal or rainforest areas could be exposed to rabid bats.
• Malaria is not a risk in Patagonia.

Chile

Official name: Republic of Chile

Country population: 17,000,000

Capital city: Santiago (6 million)

Largest cities: Santiago, Concepcion, Valparaiso

Languages: Spanish (official)

Official currency: Chilean Peso

Major industries: Copper mining, agriculture, fish

Time zone: GMT-5 in winter (Mar-Sep) and GMT-4 in summer (Sep-Mar)

Argentina

Official name: Argentine Republic Country

Population: 40,000,000

Capital city: Buenos Aires (11 million)

Largest cities: Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Rosario

Languages: Spanish (official)

Official currency: Argentine Peso

Major industries: Agriculture (Soy), motor vehicles, chemicals

Argentina: GMT-3

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

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When you buy an ATOL protected air holiday package from Andean Trails Ltd you will receive a Confirmation Invoice from us confirming your arrangements and your protection under our Air Travel Organiser’s Licence number 6275.

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What is ATOL?

The CAA’s ATOL scheme offers protection to your money and your holiday if you book with us. Not everybody is covered (see ‘Who is covered?’ for more), as you must purchase an ‘air package holiday’ with Andean Trails to be protected.

And  ‘air package holiday’ is defined as including a flight and some ground services (hotel, transfer, trek etc). This is also known as an ‘ATOL-protected holiday’.

Who is covered?

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For land only holidays not involving any air travel, in accordance with “The Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992”, all UK passengers booking with Andean Trails Ltd. are fully protected for the initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all money paid to us, arising from cancellation or curtailment of travel arrangements due to the insolvency of Andean Trails.

I’m not ATOL covered, what protection do I have?

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