South Patagonia Ice Field Trek

Today you make your way (we can organise bus) from El Calafate to El Chalten, by bus (3 hours).

El Chalten is small town of approx. 300 population, located at the foot of the granite peaks of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

You meet with the rest of your group and guide and receive a trek briefing about the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, and what lies ahead.

The guide will give detailed instructions on how to use camping and technical gear (provided) and check your kit. Spend the evening in a lodge / hotel.

After breakfast, our vehicle takes you to the bridge over the Eléctrico River, 15km northwest of El Chaltén, and the start point of our trek. Set off in the direction of the base of the Marconi Glacier.

We walk the first two hours on a well-marked path, through a forest of Lengas and Ñires, the southern beech trees alongside the Eléctrico River.

As the vegetation thins, we happen upon the Piedra Del Fraile campsite (Refugio Los Troncos – property of Estancia Ricanor), our last encounter with civilisation until we return to El Chaltén.

From here, we continue to trek towards the Fitz Roy massif, entering a great glacier valley surrounded by Treinta Aniversario, Marconi South and the North peaks. We follow the southern shore of Lake Eléctrico, crossing moraines and rocky formations left by the glaciers less than 70 years ago.

We cross the Pollone River and get views of the north-west face of Fitz Roy. Another hour of trekking brings, we cross the Upper Rio Electrico zipline and look for our camp, which is on the way to the Marconi Pass.

Distance: 19km

Altitude gained: +550m

Trekking time: 9 hours

Today we get start what will be the daily camp routine – expedition: breakfast, pack up camp and backpacks, then trek.

Within 30 minutes of leaving camp we can see the face of the Marconi Glacier. A gigantic scree moraine is our first obstacle; the terrain here is unstable and moves constantly, preventing the formation of a clear path. It’s a scramble for 20 minutes until we reach the glacier for what is probably the toughest part of the trek.

We climb 800m/2,400ft on ice and snow, using crampons and avoiding crevasses, with the expert assistance of the guide and his team (we may rope up if necessary). It may be windy and stormy, or completely clear, but our goal is our second campsite, on the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field itself.

After a long trek, our second campsite is in the shadow of Marconi South Mt and only an hour away from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field itself.

With luck, the campsite offers fantastic sunsets and sunrises over the Fitz Roy Range, Cerro Pier Giorgio, and Gorra Blanca. We are at the Chilean hut, at the base of the Gorra Blanca peak.

Note: The Ice Cap is always changing shape. Routes, stops and walks may vary from those detailed. Your guide keeps you informed at every stage of the hike. Flexibility is the key to enjoying the Ice Field trek.

Distance: 10km

Altitude gained: +500m

Trekking time: 6/7 hours

In the morning, we cross the Marconi Pass. The guide and team of assistants use sledges to carry most of the general equipment (tents, food, gas…) and we don our snowshoes.

The Patagonian Ice Field opens itself up, giving fantastic views (weather permitting) of Lautaro Volcano (still active), the Mariano Moreno Range (much larger than the Fitz Roy Range), the De Los Cuatro Glaciares Pass and Chico Glacier to the south.

Today is comparatively short, less demanding than the previous day, so after 6 hours or so we get to our snow-camp in an area called the Circo de los Altares (or the Cirque of Alters).

This is at the foot of Cerro Torre’s west face, one of the most spectacular places on earth.

Distance: 11km

Altitude lost: -250m

Trekking time: 6 hours

We continue our trek at first in a southerly direction avoiding crevasses in search of a large moraine-field. There is a lot of up and down today, and the wind from the Ice Cap can be very strong.

We pass a series of lagoons and eventually reach the Paso del Viento refuge, leaving the Ice Cap behind us.

Distance: 16km

Altitude loss: -150m

Trekking time: 8 hours

Today we climb gaining height until reaching the Huemul Pass, at 1,500m/4,921ft. There are amazing views of the Viedma Glacier as we cross the Huemul Pass.

We descend into vegetated areas once more, aiming for our campsite at the aptly named Bay of Icebergs.

Distance: 18km

Altitude gain/loss: +150m/-800m

Trekking time: 9 hours.

Today we head back to town on an easy trail.

we have the challenge of one zipline over the Lower Túnel river, but other than that can relax as we wander across the Patagonian steppe.

Distance: 15km

Altitude gain/loss: +200m/-200m

Trekking time: 6 hours.

These days are optional reserve days for bad weather – sometimes plans change and we have to spend more time at certain stops.

If the weather is good and there are no issues then the group stays up on the ice, exploring Paso Marconi, Circo de Las Altares, Paso del Viento or Gorra Blanca or similar or does some trekking nearby.

Tour ends with breakfast in El Chalten.

We can arrange for transfers to El Calafate and beyond, as well as more hikes in the El Chalten area, Torres del Paine and more.

For most people, Patagonia evokes a vast, windblown plateau, jagged mountains and the life of the gauchos.

The steppe that occupies much of southern South America is only one aspect of a magical region, jam-packed with amazing and contrasting landscapes.

Patagonia (latitudes 40°-55°, approximately) embraces a vast portion of southern Chile and Argentina, from the Rio Colorado in the north, to Tierra del Fuego in the south.

For convenience, we have divided the region into three zones: the Lakes District of northern Patagonian, central Patagonia and southern Patagonia.

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on the ice cap , layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers.

Layers should have the following qualities:

1. Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat);
2. Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
3. Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.

Note that it’s our extremities that stand to suffer the most, and on the ice cap, the poorly-equipped mountaineer is at risk of becoming frostbitten. Hence, much thought should be given to deciding how best to protect hands, feet and head.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down. You carry everything, including a share of the group food, tents, etc, and you will carry your pack everyday which will be around 18-25kg.

Crampons, harness and snowshoes are provided, as is all non-personal trekking and camping equipment. Plastic boots can be hired in El Chalten.

Below is a more detailed guide.

Feet

• 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax)
• 3 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
• Plastic boots or four-season leather boots suitable for step-in crampons.
• Gaiters (1 pair), heavy and large enough to fit over plastic boots.
• Trainers/sandals, for city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.

Legs

• Base layer leggings (1-2 pair).
• Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Trekking trousers (1 pair).
• Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.

Body

• Thermal base layer shirts (2).
• Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
• Shirt/T-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun.
• Fleece jacket or similar (1).
• Warm jacket (down or synthetic) with hood. For camp and upper slopes.
• Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.
• 1-2 sports bras/tanks (for women)

Head and neck

• Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
• Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
• Balaclava/full-face ski mask (1)
• Sunglasses with UV filter and nose and side-pieces.
• 1 pair of glacier compatible sunglasses (full coverage – ask salesperson if you are not sure) or ski goggles.
• Scarf for cold.
• Bandanna  – to protect neck from strong sun.

Hands

For the extreme cold, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:

• 1 pair of Gore-Tex shell gloves
• 2 pairs of removable fleece glove liners
• Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).

Technical kit

• Large backpack (80-90 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• You will need another bag to store belongings left at hotel during expedition.
• Walking ice axe (can be rented).
• Pair of telescopic trekking poles. (can be rented).

Other expedition kit

• Sleeping bag – a good warm bag (‘4-season’, minimum) and liner will be necessary for camping.
• Sleeping mat, a foam mat is provided
• 2 x water bottles (2 litres each approx).
• Pee bottle.
• Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, general antibiotics (ask your GP), after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
• Towel & wash-kit.
• Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
• Toilet roll (1)
• Sunscreen (factor 40+) and lip salve.
• Head-lamp (Plus spare bulbs and batteries x 2 at least).
• Penknife.
• Thermos flask (1 litre) Stainless steel.
• Alarm clock.
• Plastic bags ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
• Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
• Book, e-book, mp3 player/ipod or other for free time.
• Binoculars.
• Spanish/English phrasebook.
• Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, e.g. tents, cutlery etc.

Patagonia, the very southern tip of South America, has a four-seasons-in-one day climate.

Summer (Nov-March) see temperatures reach up to 20°C, when glorious light pours over the region for up to 18 hours. This is the best time to visit, nevertheless, spring and summer is also when the central and southern Patagonian regions sometimes get buffeted by strong, westerly winds.

Summer days in national parks can also bring sunny, windless conditions, and you may well find yourself hiking in shorts and t-shirt. Afternoons can be warm with lots of sunshine. (Note: Patagonian UV rays are very strong).

It is usually cool and windy all year round but seldom does the temperature fall below freezing point. Some days start with snow and end in balmy sunshine. It is always interesting, and can range from 10°C-20°C in the summer, although the wind can make it feel chilly.

Even in summer (Dec-Mar) you should come prepared to find cold, strong winds (up to 130 km/hr) and rainfalls. The summer’s average temperature is 11ºC/52ºF (24ºC max, 2ºC min). It has been known to snow in camps in summer!

In general, the further south you go, the cooler it gets and the further west you go – towards the Andes and Pacific coast – the wetter and less predictable the weather is. The further east – towards and across the Patagonian plateau – the drier and more stable.

Winter (May-Sept) visits to these southern areas are possible, but many hotels close and not all trips are possible. Daylight hours can be very short and temperatures typically range from -2°C in the winter.

The lack of visitors can greatly improve chances of seeing wildlife in parks such as Paine. Winds tend to die down.

On the South Patagonian Ice Field (average height, 1,500 metres), the appearance of lenticular clouds – signifying changing conditions – can translate into extreme winds (up to 150 kmh) and heavy snowfall. Here, summer pre-dawn temperatures commonly reach -20°C, with wind chill lowering temperatures even more. However, on sunny, windless summer days, you might get away with wearing just a couple of thin layers.

In Peninsula Valdes, it does not rain much in the region on an annual basis, summers are usually mild, and the temperature sometimes gets very hot (touching 30ºC) and then eases off in the evening. The area does get very windy at times, especially on the peninsula, and warm and water/windproof clothing is recommended.

If you head to Ushuaia, due to its extreme southern location, temperatures may remain chilly during summer (Oct-March) the use of plenty of warm layers of clothing. Winter and Antarctic visits will require extreme clothing.

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

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