Peru Self-Guided Walking Holiday

Join the tour in Lima.

We take an early flight to the colonial city of Arequipa (2,325 metres/7,628ft), which sits at the foot of three tremendous volcanoes: El Misti (5,821m/19,098ft), Chachani (6,075m/19,931ft) and Pichu Pichu (5,542m/18,182ft). The city is built of earthquake-resistant sillar, a white pumice stone.

Arequipa is a city with many attractions of its own and additionally is a good base for visiting the remarkably deep canyon of Colca. With a year-round spring climate and sunshine guaranteed for 300 days of the year, it is the perfect place to begin acclimatising before continuing upwards.

Evidence suggests that there have been people living in the Arequipa area for six to eight thousand years. The early inhabitants were hunter-gatherers. In the 7th century the Huari culture made an impact as did the later Tiahuanaco culture (10th century) and then the Incas.

The 17th and 18th centuries saw the city’s importance grow thanks to the silver mined at Potosi in Bolivia and, in the 19th century, from the export of alpaca wool to Britain. There are several impressive sillar colonial buildings, the most well known being the incredible ‘mini city’ of the Santa Catalina Convent.

Today Arequipa (officially founded by the Spanish in 1540) is an important commercial city of 650,000 inhabitants.

On arrival choose a city tour or wander this lovely city independently, with many places to enjoy.

You are collected from your hotel and travel through Colca Valley, passing the Pampas Cañahuas where vicunas, the South American camel, can be found.

We head to Patapampa (4,800m/15,748ft) where we are rewarded with fantastic views of the surrounding volcanoes. We travel on to Chivay, and in the afternoon we visit the thermal baths at Clera. Night in hotel in Chivay, where you can choose accommodation from a cosy lodge to luxury spa, depending on your tastes and budget.

The head of the Colca valley is at about 4,000m/13,123ft above sea level. At this altitude very little grows and the land is only used for grazing. Lower down the valley, around Chivay (3,633m/11,920ft), the land is suitable for agriculture; here the typical agricultural terraces are seen.

A few kilometres from Chivay the valleys begins to narrow and the sides steepen to form the Cañon de Colca, which has an average depth of 3,400m/11,155ft for over 100km.

Although there is evidence of occupation here several thousand years ago, the landscape owes its appearance to the more recent pre-Inca Collaguas and Cabanas people. They were great agriculturalists and the designers and builders of the characteristic irrigation canals and terraces of the Colca Canyon.

Their gods were the region’s mountain spirits; Hualqa-Hualqa mountain (6,075m/19,931ft) was worshipped for its power to control the water flowing into the valley.

Now, as then, the Colca agricultural produce is some of the best in Peru. Volcanoes bordering the canyon include Coropuna (6,425m/21,079ft) and Ampato (6,320m/20,735ft). North of the canyon is the Cordillera Chila, one of whose peaks (Mismi, 5,596m/18,360ft) is considered the source of the Amazon River.

A hundred kilometres long, the incredible gorge of the Colca canyon is said to reach a maximum depth of 3,400m/11,155ft – twice that of the Grand Canyon. It was formed through a fault in the earth’s crust being eroded over thousands of years by the largest river of the Peruvian coast, the river Colca.

Although a mere 160km north of Arequipa, its full extent was recognised only as recently as 1954; the first major explorations took place in 1978 and the first descent by raft and canoe in 1981.

On both sides of the canyon you’ll find picturesque villages whose inhabitants will help you with directions. Cave paintings suggest that people have lived here since the fist humans arrived in the Andes.

The characteristic terraces of the Colca valley rival those of the Incas. They were carved out of the land 1,400 years ago by the Collaguas, who were Aymaras from Tiahuanaco, and the Cabanas, who were of Quechua origin, both pre-Incan people with an advanced level of agricultural development. The terraces are still widely used. Many local people still wear distinctive and colourful traditional costumes, and the valley boasts an extraordinary genetic variety of potatoes, corn, quinua, maca, oca, and isaño.

We leave early to reach Cruz de Condor (3,800m) and watch the majestic birds riding the thermals.

In spite of weighing some 10 or 12 kilos the condor, with a wing-span of over three metres, achieves amazing efficiency in flight. With barely a beat of its wings it is able to soar to great heights and glide enormous distances. The Colca Canyon is one of very few places where you are almost guaranteed close-up sightings of these majestic birds.

Around 13.00, board the bus at Chivay, and take a scenic six hour drive, with stops, through the altiplano to Puno, your stop before your trip on Lake Titicaca.

The altiplano is the vast highland plateau straddling Peru and Bolivia. There are few trees; just ichu scrubgrass, roaming herds of llama and alpaca and scattered potato plots.

On this scenic bus journey from Chivay to Puno we go over some high passes and through some wetlands with andean geese, with stops to enjoy the often dramatic mountain scenery. At some of the lakes, there is a good chance of spotting flamingoes.

Lake Titicaca is the major feature of Peru’s altiplano. This amazing, deep blue lake at 3,838m/12,592ft has a unique charm and supports many Indian communities on its islands and shores.

It’s an early start and down to the bustling port of Puno.

We set off on the world’s highest navigable lake, with the first stop being the floating islands of Uros. We step off the boat and explore these fascinating islands, seeing how people live and make the islands.

There is a chance to buy some of the high quality weaving and sail in one of the local’s reed boats before we set off for Amantani.

If you are staying overnight, the village elder will designate your host family for the night.

You are then free to explore the trails and far reaches of this fascinating culture.

After a free morning, your boat takes you back to Puno via Taquile, arriving Puno mid-afternoon, leaving you with an evening to explore the lakeside town.

Today we take the train (extra cost) or bus across the altiplano to Cusco.

About half way, we climb to a pass at 4,300m/14,108ft, and then descend into the lush, fertile world of the Vilcanota valley. Eventually, turning into the Huatanay valley, we travel the final kilometres to Cusco. Archaeological capital of South America, Cusco and the surrounding region contain a wealth of archaeological and cultural treasures unequalled in the Old World.

Cusco is also a lively and exciting city boasting a wide range of restaurants and an active nightlife to suit everybody. Nowadays Cusco’s main source of income is tourism, but it remains an important market town for the many farming communities that surround it. Street markets contain a huge range of highland and jungle produce.

Cusco is a beautiful city with a unique fusion of Inca stonework and elegant Spanish colonial architecture. Legend has it that Cusco was founded around AD 1100 by the first Inca king, Manco Capac, and his sister queen, Mama Ocllo, in AD 1100. He was the son of the Sun god (Inti) and she the daughter of the Moon goddess. They were sent to earth at Lake Titicaca with instructions to and civilise humanity.

Their travels took them to Cusco, where Manco Capac plunged his staff into the ground. This was the sign that he had found the capital of the new (Inca) empire. Archaeological evidence suggests that, for the first few hundred years, the Inca tribes kept within a short radius of Cusco with little conquering ambition. Only in 1438, with the arrival of Pachacutec (ninth Inca Emperor), did serious expansion begin and soon Cusco was at the centre of a rapidly expanding empire.

Pachacutec also masterminded the design of the imperial capital. The heart of the city was Huacaypata a large central plaza, and scene of all important ceremonies in the Inca calendar. This was surrounded by the sumptuous palaces of the Inca kings. The characteristic interlocking stonework of these Inca structures is today still much in evidence.

When Francisco Pizarro and the Spanish Conquistadores reached Peru, Cusco was the thriving capital of a flourishing empire. But an internicine civil war within the ruling family made its conquest relatively easy. The Spanish were impressed by the grandeur of Cusco, but spent little time admiring it before they began to loot it of its treasure.

From the time of Pizarro’s arrival until 1572, Cusco witnessed many battles of native resistance as well as power struggles between the colonists. The Spaniards’ appointed ruler, Manco Inca, soon realised he was no more than a ‘puppet’. In 1536 he led an attack on the city but, against all odds, the Spanish managed to break out of the besieged city and retake it. The Incas retreated to Vilcabamba, deep in the mountains to the north.

Tupac Amaru, the last leader of the rebel Incas at Vilcabamba, was finally captured by the colonial powers and put to death in Cusco in 1572.

Free day in Cusco.

We spend today exploring the Sacred Valley. Thirty kilometres from Cusco lies the Sacred Valley of the Incas, a must-see for its spectacular setting, archaeological sites and markets.

Pisac hosts a very good craft market and boasts a nearby mountain-top citadel. The Inca town of Ollantaytambo and Indian market of Chincheros are unique and fascinating.

We pick you up early from your hotel in Cusco. After picking up all other trekkers you travel by bus, via the highland villages of Chinchero, Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, for the three hour journey to the start of the Inca Trail

From the road there are great views of the Cordillera Urubamba mountain range and the snow capped peak of Veronica 5,860m/19,225ft.

Most of our groups have up to 16 trekkers with one main English-speaking guide and an assistant guide. Trekkers come from all over the world, and are of all ages.

At Chilca, where we start the trek, you walk down to the entrance, where your tickets are checked. Sign in, cross the bridge and make a left turn following the trail gently along the river bank until uphill we reach a eucalyptus grove and Llactapata – the first major ruins on the route. Vast retaining walls have converted the steeply sloping hillside into agricultural terraces: an amazing sight.

Just below Llactapata the Río Cusichaca, a tributary of the Urubamba, takes a spectacular plunge into the ground and runs through a subterranean channel for some way. The trail climbs steeply out of the ruins over a low pass, and the hike up the valley begins.

After about an hour you’ll reach a bridge, putting you on the other side of the valley, and will continue on to the village of Huayllabamba (3,000m/9,843ft). You will reach it in a further half hour. By this time it is likely to be very hot and you will welcome the cold drinks at the village which makes its living out of Inca Trail hikers.

First night camp with basic facilities.

Distance:    11.1km/6.9 miles

Highest point:  2,912m/9,554ft

Starting altitude:   2,753m/9,032ft

Finishing altitude:     2,885m/9,466ft

Height gained:   398m/1,306ft

Height lost:    302m/991ft

We break camp and set off with our big target in mind – Dead Woman’s Pass!

Our path enters woods – first scrub, then very beautiful cloud forest where the trees are hung with moss. These fairy-tale woods will help keep your mind off the fact that you are still going steeply uphill with no sign of respite.

Eventually, however, the trees become more stunted and you emerge into a meadow, Llulluchapampa. From The Forks to the meadow is about two hours. This is the last campsite before the pass, aptly named (if you are a female hiker) Abra de Huarmihuañusqa, ‘Dead Woman’s Pass’ (4,198m/13,773ft), which you can see ahead of you.

It will take you about another 90 minutes hours to climb to the top of the pass. This is the highest point on the trail, so take heart – if you survive this, you’ll survive the other passes. Take time to look around you. You should be able to pick out the circular ruins of Runkuracay ahead, just below the next pass.

The descent is steep but not difficult. Just follow the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and the next designated campsite at Pacamayo (3,600m/11,811ft).

Nearby are some huts with basic toilets and sinks built by the INC.

Camp for the evening.

Distance:                     12.3km/7.7 miles

Highest point:             4,222m/13,852ft

Starting altitude:        2,885m/9,466ft

Finishing altitude:       3,603m/11,821ft

Height gained:            1,361m/4,465ft

Height lost:                 613m/2,011ft

From Runkuracay the path is clear over the second pass (Abra de Runkuracay, 4,000m/13,123ft) and, excitingly, much of the time you are on Inca steps. The descent down the steps is steep, so take care.

Just before the trail turns right, you’ll see the sign for Sayacmarca. These ruins lie about an hour from the top of the pass and the name, which means ‘the Inaccessible or Secret City’, is apt. You approach Sayacmarca up a superbly designed stone staircase. This is a diversion (the main trail continues its gradual descent to the right) but don’t let fatigue persuade you to miss it.

Like so many Inca ruins, no one really knows the purpose of Sayacmarca, but these are the visible facts: it was built on a precipice commanding a spacious view; there are no agricultural terraces so the complex could not have supported many inhabitants; ritual baths and an aqueduct run round the outside of the main wall; there are curious stone rings set in the wall by trapezoid openings. For us the mystery adds to the beauty, and it is beauty all the way from here – if you are fortunate with the weather.

The trail continues down to the valley floor. From here it becomes a glorious Inca Road, being on a raised causeway over marshy ground that then rises up through cloudforest. Stone paving on raised stone foundations, steps and a gentle gradient make for easy walking, and even if it is raining (and it does at times) you will marvel at the Inca workmanship.

Before the climb to the third pass there is a campsite with basic toilets. During the ascent you climb through two Inca tunnels, and if it is a clear day you will have the added bonus of a view of Salkantay over to your left. The pass (3,700m/12,139ft) is used as a campsite, but it gets crowded and water is some way below. Just below the pass, about 2 hours from Sayacmarca, are the impressive ruins of Phuyupatamarca. Access is down a steep flight of stairs. Clear water runs through the channels cut into the rock that feed five baths, leading one from the other down the hill (you may camp here).

An Inca staircase leads from the west side of the ruins (the far end from the baths) and disappears into the jungle, leading you down a thousand steps. Literally. You’ll think that your knees will never feel the same again.

The trek arrives at the campsite near the ruins of Huiñay Huayna (Wiñay Wayna).  This is the last camping spot before Machu Picchu and it is often very full. Basic camping facilities, toilets, running water.

Huiñay Huayna lies just below the campsite, round to the right as you are descending, and is the most extensive of the ruins so far.

It has some beautiful stonework, a fantastic location, and an air of mystery often lacking in the crowded Machu Picchu ruins.

Distance:                     12.9km/8 miles

Highest point:             3,893m/12,772ft

Starting altitude:        3,603m/11,821ft

Finishing altitude:       2,732m/8,962ft

Height gained:             1,185m/3,888ft

Height lost:                 1,345m/4,413ft

When we arrive there is plenty of time to take photos of Machu Picchu. We walk down through the site to the main entrance where you can safely leave your backpacks. You can also use the toilet and have a drink in the restaurant just outside the entrance. We head back into the site for a complete tour of the major sectors of Machu Picchu. The tour takes about two hours so by about mid-morning you’ll be free to continue to explore the ruins alone.

The train back to Cusco leaves from Aguas Calientes, the nearest village to the ruins of Machu Picchu, at approximately 16:30 and you get back into Cusco for about 21:00.

We suggest that after visiting Machu Picchu you take the bus down to Aguas Calientes at 15:30 at the latest (depending on your train departure time). Buses depart every 15 minutes. Check with the guide for actual times. This leaves you plenty of time at the site or to do one of the other walks nearby.

There are many restaurants in Aguas Calientes to satisfy all tastes and budgets. Of course you could also visit the hot springs that Agues Calientes is named for, which will help ease those aching muscles. Entrance to the springs costs US$5, and you should allow a couple of hours to fully enjoy them.

Distance:                     7.9km/4.9 miles

Highest point:             2,739m/8,988ft

Starting altitude:        2,732m/8,962ft

Finishing altitude:       2,452m/8,046ft

Height gained:              311m/1,020ft

Height lost:                 377m/1,237ft

Regulations (August 2011) mean that the number of visitors to Machu Picchu is limited to 2,500 people per day. This means that you must pre-book your entrance to the site. The entry ticket cannot be purchased in Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu pueblo but must be bought in advance (by us) in Cusco.

On the 5 day Inca Trail if you wish to visit the site on your last day (day 5) you will need to reserve and pay for your entrance ticket at the time of booking. The cost is USD 80 per person.

If you wish to climb Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu mountain, places now also have to be pre/booked and come at an additional cost.

Machu Picchu mountain has to be climbed before 11am, and there are two departure times for Huayna Picchu:

Group 1 (G1): 0700 – 0800

Group 2 (G2): 1000 – 1100

The price is USD 80 including the entrance fee to Machu Picchu.

Tour ends, or enjoy onwards travel.

Peru is the perfect holiday destination for adventure travellers that want an amazing variety of activity, geography and cultural travel experiences.

The breadth of travel experiences in Peru is breathtaking – from trekking in the Andes to Machu Picchu to the tropical jungle of the Amazon, and plenty in between.

The people of Peru make it a special destination too, with its colourful and traditional street life and friendly locals.

Peru is made up of 3 distinct geographical areas: the coast, the mountains and the jungle.

The costa or coastal region is a narrow ribbon of desert 2,250 km long, crossed by fertile river valleys flowing from the Andes. It takes up 11% of the country and holds more than 40% of the population.

The cold Humboldt current gives rise to a blanket of mist – the garua – which hangs above coastal cities like the capital Lima from May to November.

Heading east, you’re soon climbing above the garua and into the Andes. The sierra, or mountainous region, covers some 25% of Peru’s territory and contains 50% of the population. The sierra inhabitants are mainly Indigenous or Mestizo, and many still speak Quechua or Aymara.

The sierra contains dozens of 6,000-metre snow peaks and volcanoes, including Huascaran (6,768m) the highest mountain in the tropics. The deep valley basins contain most of the towns and arable land; the terracing and canal systems of the Incas and pre-Incas are often still used today.

The eastern Andes are heavily forested up to 3,350m and sweep down into the Amazon Basin.

Peru’s selva or jungle makes up almost two thirds of the country’s area, but holds only about 6% of the population: the only towns with significant populations are Iquitos and Pucallpa.

You can also read about the weather of Peru in our blog.

Peru is located in the southern tropics (latitudes 0º to 18º), but climate varies significantly according to season, altitude and region.

Lima & the coast

From May to October, Lima is often overcast, but with minimal precipitation. There are sunny spells, and it’s a fresh to pleasant 13-20ºC.

At the same time, inland  areas and the north coast mid to high 20’s ºC.

November to April is generally warm and sunny and Lima enjoys warm temperature of 19-25ºC, with the coast averaging 22-30ºC.

The Andes

Climate depends largely on altitude. As a rule of thumb, below 2,000m climate is mild and above 2,000m warm clothing is required for evenings, nights and early mornings.

The Andean sun is very strong.

May to Oct (dry season in The Andes)

Cusco (3,300m): Average max/min temps: 22ºC /2ºC. Average 3 or 4 wet days per month.

Arequipa (2,380m): Average max/min temps: 26ºC /9ºC. Sunny more than 340 days/year with minimal precipitation.

On highland treks: Conditions are generally dry. However, at this time of year, expect a range of conditions within a single day: cold/freezing nights at camps above 4,000m, where pre-dawn temperatures can be -5ºC; warm, spring-like mornings and afternoons; and cold evenings.

Note that mountain weather can be fickle and localised, and that precipitation is not unknown in the dry season. Expect temperatures to swing between sun and shade, sheltered and exposed ground and with altitude gain and loss. A quick-setting sun means temperatures drop fast.

In the cloud forest, e.g. around Machu Picchu, daytime conditions are generally warm or hot, and evenings cool.

Nov to March/April (wet season in The Andes)

Cusco: Average max/min temps: 23ºC /6ºC. Average 13 wet days per month.

Arequipa: Average max/min temps: 25ºC /14ºC.

On highland treks: Wetter conditions, with cooler days and milder nights than dry season. Jan-Mar usually the wettest months.

The Amazon rainforest

Year-round, weather conditions are hot and humid and there is always the risk of rain

There is a ‘dry season’ in Tambopata and Manu between May and October. The average daytime high temperature is between 25°C and 34°C and the average nighttime low is between 16°C and 22°C. Heavy downpours typically occur every few days.

Around 80% of annual average rainfall – approx 2,000 mm in Manu and Tambopata and 1,400 mm in Iquitos – occurs in the wet season Nov-April.

On rare occasions, between May and September, cold fronts from Argentina – ‘friajes’ – can sweep into southwest Amazonia and push temperatures down to 9° C. (Friajes usually last between 1 and 3 days).

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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Overview

When planning for the climatic conditions encountered in the High Andes, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system.  It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers. Layers should have the following qualities:

1. Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat):
2. Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
3. Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isloating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.

We provide thermarests on the trek but you have to bring (or RENT, please ask) a sleeping bag (-5ºC).

We also carry an extensive first aid kit & oxygen on all trips, but these are generally for emergencies only.

Below is a more detailed guide.

Detailed kit list

• 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax) and 2 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
• Trekking boots – should be well broken-in, waterproof and provide good ankle support.
• Trainers/sandals for city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.
• Base layer leggings (1 pair).
• Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Trekking trousers (2 pairs).
• Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.
• Thermal base layer shirts (2).
• Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
• Shirt/t-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun
• Fleece jacket or similar (1).
• Warm jacket (down or synthetic). For camp and upper slopes.
• Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.
• Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
• Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
• Sunglasses with UV filter.
• Scarf for cold.
• Bandanna – to protect neck from strong sun.
• Light inner gloves
• Warm gloves, e.g. fleece, and outer waterproof gloves or mittens (1 pair)
• Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).
• Daypack (at least 30 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• Pair of telescopic trekking poles (optional, can be rented, please ask). Note: You must have rubber tips on your poles.
• Duffel bag or large rucksack for extra clothing, carried by horse/mule/porter while you are trekking.
• Water bottle (2 litres approx.) & purification tablets.
• Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, general antibiotics (ask your GP), after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
• Insect repellent.
• Towel & wash-kit.
• Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
• Sunscreen (factor 30+) and lip salve.
• Head-lamp (plus spare bulb and batteries).
• Penknife.
• Travel alarm clock.
• Plastic bags – ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
• Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
• Book, e-book, mp3 player/ipod or other for free time.
• Binoculars.
• Spanish/English phrasebook.
• Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All other non-personal trekking camping gear e.g. tents, cutlery etc is provided.

Miscellaneous others

• Money belt.
• Passport.
• U.S. dollars cash, mixed-denomination notes, undamaged and unmarked.
• ATM cash/credit card.
• Any inoculation certificates.
• Personal & medical insurance certificates.
• Presents e.g. Postcards from home.
• Comfortable clothes for travel, smart clothes for night life.

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

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What is ATOL?

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And  ‘air package holiday’ is defined as including a flight and some ground services (hotel, transfer, trek etc). This is also known as an ‘ATOL-protected holiday’.

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For land only holidays not involving any air travel, in accordance with “The Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992”, all UK passengers booking with Andean Trails Ltd. are fully protected for the initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all money paid to us, arising from cancellation or curtailment of travel arrangements due to the insolvency of Andean Trails.

I’m not ATOL covered, what protection do I have?

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