The Huemul Circuit Trek, El Chalten

Please note: There is a pre-trek briefing in El Chaltén the day before the trek starts.

We leave El Chaltén early in the morning, taking the trail towards Laguna Toro. The path takes us through open fields and beech forests with occasional glimpses of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy.

The Cerro Huemul massif begins to fill the view, and we must descend to reach our campsite at Laguna Toro. Recent rain or warm weather may have caused glacial melt, meaning some knee-high river crossings.

Campamento Laguna Toro (Toro Camp) is in a sheltered spot from the wind.

Hike length: 10 miles/16km

Trekking time: 6-7 hours

Elevation: +600m (1,970ft) / -400m (1,312ft)

Meals included: Packed lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Wild camping

Morning routines mean breakfast and breaking camp together before setting off trekking.

We must cross the Túnel River today, and we do that via a zipline called a Tyrolean traverse. People and kit clip onto a zipline and make their way over the cold waters of the Túnel so we can continue the Huemul Circuit trek.

One challenge is completed, and another one comes along. It’s a long uphill pull from the crossing to the Viento Pass, or Windy Pass, skirting across the Lower Túnel Glacier. The Windy Pass (1,400m/4,593ft) is famous for gales and unrivalled views over the South Patagonia Ice Field, the Mariano Moreno mountain range, and the Viedma Glacier.

The reward is worth the effort.

We’ll descend to the site of a Refugio, way up in the mountains, appropriately called the Refugio Paso del Viento, or shelter from the windy pass. Here, we wild camp.

Hike length: 10 miles/16km

Trekking time: 6-7 hours

Elevation: +800m (2,624ft) / -400m (1,312ft)

Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Wild camping

Today is a spectacular day, accompanied by the enormous Viedma Glacier we trek above in the morning. This vantage point affords fantastic views, with mountain lakes complementing the scenery. There is a fair amount of descent, so prepare the knees and allow landscapes to distract you.

The downhills stop roughly about lunchtime. Process the energy well because it’s an uphill next, up and over the Huemul Pass, the pass the trek is named after. This is the last significant climb of the trip. Once we crest the pass, we’ll say goodbye to the South Patagonia Ice Field and tackle another steep descent to our campsite, the aptly titled Bay of Iceberg.

This sheltered camp is next to a lake replete with floating icebergs, a magical sight. Take time to explore the shore and get some incredible photographs, especially if there is a colourful sunset.

Hike length: 11.5 miles/18km

Trekking time: 9 hours

Elevation: +400m (1,312ft) / -800m (2,624ft)

Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Wild camping

As we break camp, we leave behind the extreme undulations of the previous three days. Our backpacks will feel lighter now that most of the provisions have been consumed as we walk back towards El Chaltén.

The Patagonia steppe is the background to today’s walk, which is relatively flat. We cross the Túnel River once more, using the zipline. You’ll see our transport vehicle waiting on the other side of the river, ready to take us to El Chaltén, a rare incentive.

The Huemul Circuit trek is complete, and we take the short drive back to town.

Hike length: 9.5 miles/15km

Trekking time: 6 hours

Elevation: +200m (660ft) / -200m (660ft)

Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch

Accommodation: Not included

For most people, Patagonia evokes a vast, windblown plateau, jagged mountains and the life of the gauchos.

The steppe that occupies much of southern South America is only one aspect of a magical region, jam-packed with amazing and contrasting landscapes.

Patagonia (latitudes 40°-55°, approximately) embraces a vast portion of southern Chile and Argentina, from the Rio Colorado in the north, to Tierra del Fuego in the south.

For convenience, we have divided the region into three zones: the Lakes District of northern Patagonian, central Patagonia and southern Patagonia.

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on the Huemul Circuit, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers.

Layers should have the following qualities:

1. Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat);
2. Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
3. Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down. You carry everything, including a share of the group food (5-6kg), tents, etc, and you will carry your pack everyday which will be around 15-25kg, depending on how you pack.

Tyrolean traverse kit and tent is provided. camping equipment.

Below is a more detailed guide.

Feet

• 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax)
• 2 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
• Three to four-season leather boots.
• Gaiters (1 pair), optional
• Trainers/sandals, for city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.

Legs

• Base layer leggings (1-2 pair).
• Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Trekking trousers (1 pair).
• Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.

Body

• Thermal base layer shirts (2).
• Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
• Shirt/T-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun.
• Fleece jacket or similar (1).
• Warm jacket (down or synthetic) with hood. For camp and upper slopes.
• Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.
• 1-2 sports bras/tanks (for women)

Head and neck

• Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
• Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
• Balaclava/full-face ski mask (1)
• Sunglasses with UV filter and nose and side-pieces.
• 1 pair of glacier compatible sunglasses (full coverage – ask salesperson if you are not sure) or ski goggles.
• Scarf for cold.
• Bandanna  – to protect neck from strong sun.

Hands

For the extreme cold, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:

• 1 pair of Gore-Tex shell gloves
• 1 pairs of removable fleece glove liners
• Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).

Technical kit

• Large backpack (60-65 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• You will need another bag to store belongings left at hotel during expedition.
• Pair of telescopic trekking poles. (can be rented).

Other expedition kit

• Sleeping bag – a good warm bag (‘4-season’, minimum, down to -12°C) and liner will be necessary for camping.
• Sleeping mat.
• 60-65 litre backpack
• Headlamp
• Water bottle (a 1L Nalgene bottle is ideal)
• Thermos (to carry hot drinks), 0.5 to 1 litre
• Sun cream (SPF 35+ or more)
• Lip balm (preferably with sun protection)
• Personal hygiene products, including toilet paper and wet wipes and plastic bags to carry out ablutions.
• Mosquito/fly repellent
• Crocs or other comfortable footwear (waterproof) for camps
• Light down or warm synthetic jacket to stay warm at night
• Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
• Towel & wash-kit.
• Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
• Penknife.
• Plastic bags ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
• Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
• Book, e-book, mp3 player/iPod or other for free time.
• Binoculars.
• Spanish/English phrasebook.
• Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, e.g. tents, cutlery etc.

Patagonia, the very southern tip of South America, has a four-seasons-in-one day climate.

Summer (Nov-March) see temperatures reach up to 20°C, when glorious light pours over the region for up to 18 hours. This is the best time to visit, nevertheless, spring and summer is also when the central and southern Patagonian regions sometimes get buffeted by strong, westerly winds.

Summer days in national parks can also bring sunny, windless conditions, and you may well find yourself hiking in shorts and t-shirt. Afternoons can be warm with lots of sunshine. (Note: Patagonian UV rays are very strong).

It is usually cool and windy all year round but seldom does the temperature fall below freezing point. Some days start with snow and end in balmy sunshine. It is always interesting, and can range from 10°C-20°C in the summer, although the wind can make it feel chilly.

Even in summer (Dec-Mar) you should come prepared to find cold, strong winds (up to 130 km/hr) and rainfalls. The summer’s average temperature is 11ºC/52ºF (24ºC max, 2ºC min). It has been known to snow in camps in summer!

In general, the further south you go, the cooler it gets and the further west you go – towards the Andes and Pacific coast – the wetter and less predictable the weather is. The further east – towards and across the Patagonian plateau – the drier and more stable.

Winter (May-Sept) visits to these southern areas are possible, but many hotels close and not all trips are possible. Daylight hours can be very short and temperatures typically range from -2°C in the winter.

The lack of visitors can greatly improve chances of seeing wildlife in parks such as Paine. Winds tend to die down.

On the South Patagonian Ice Field (average height, 1,500 metres), the appearance of lenticular clouds – signifying changing conditions – can translate into extreme winds (up to 150 kmh) and heavy snowfall. Here, summer pre-dawn temperatures commonly reach -20°C, with wind chill lowering temperatures even more. However, on sunny, windless summer days, you might get away with wearing just a couple of thin layers.

In Peninsula Valdes, it does not rain much in the region on an annual basis, summers are usually mild, and the temperature sometimes gets very hot (touching 30ºC) and then eases off in the evening. The area does get very windy at times, especially on the peninsula, and warm and water/windproof clothing is recommended.

If you head to Ushuaia, due to its extreme southern location, temperatures may remain chilly during summer (Oct-March) the use of plenty of warm layers of clothing. Winter and Antarctic visits will require extreme clothing.

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

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