Climb Huayna Potosi in Bolivia

Leaving at 09.00 from La Paz, we drive for two hours, passing the cementery of Milluni, to our base camp (4,750m/15,584ft).

After lunch, we hike to the base of Glacier Viejo (4,850m/15,912ft) to practice basic ice-climbing techniques with all our climbing material (ice climbing, crampon and ice axe).

We return to base camp to spend the night in a basic mountain refuge.

After breakfast, we start trekking up a rocky track through the morrianes of Huayna Potosi.

This is typical of walks in to the base of glaciers in a high mountain environment and does not require the use of any climbing equipment.

After two to three hours we arrive at Refugio Rocas (5,200m/17,060ft), located right near the glacier base.

Here we will cook up some supper and spend a short night. This is an extremely basic mountain refuge.

After breakfast at 01.00, we will prepare our mountain gear to start our summit climb at 02.00.

The normal route is not particularly technical though it does help if you have previous high mountain experience and some knowledge of use of an ice-axe and crampons.

The ascent presents two steep sections, the first at 5,700m/18,700ft, and the second at 5,900m/19,357ft.

We will be roped up at all times and the guides will be instructing in how best to move all the way up.

After 5-6 hours we will reach the summit (6,088m/19,974ft) and enjoy an incredible 360º view.

Returning to high camp (3 hours), we have a quick lunch and return to base camp (1 hour) from where we return by vehicle to La Paz, arriving there late afternoon.

Land-locked Bolivia is a country of dramatic landscapes and fascinating native cultures and traditions.

The Altiplano or “High Plain”, averaging 3,800m, is its most populous region. The vast, luminous plateau is flanked to east and west by parallel Andean ranges.

La Paz, the world’s highest capital, lies in a deep canyon at the edge of the Altiplano, and at the foot of Illimani (6,400m). It is a striking city for its dramatic setting and its strong Indian character.

Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake. It was sacred to the Incas; according to legend, their founding emperor-gods rose from these waters to give birth to their empire. Just south of the lake stands the sacred pre-Inca site of Tiahuanaco.

On the south-western Altiplano are the Uyuni Salt Flats, the largest in the world. Here, the shimmering white salt pan and deep blue sky combine to create a truly magical spectacle.

The stunning Cordillera Real is a mountain range dominated by huge snow peaks, including Illimani and Illampu (6,380m). The Real divides the northern Altiplano from the tropical forests to the east. The Cordillera Real’s eastern slopes are characterized by the deep, sub-tropical Yungas gorges.

Further south, the tropical Chapare is the agricultural heart of Bolivia. East of this band of high forests and plantations lies Bolivia’s Oriente, a vast swathe of Amazonian jungle and savanna accounting for 2/3 of the country and featuring some of the last untouched wilderness on earth.

In the north-eastern Department of Beni, some 50% of the country’s mammals and birds reside. Below, and in no special order, we outline some of the top places to go and things to do.

Bolivia lies within the tropics, between latitudes 10º and 22º south. The climate, as varied as its geography, is affected by latitude and, especially, by altitude.

The best time to travel is the winter (dry season) between May and Oct when, typically, weather systems over the Andes are stable, and overall you can expect bright sunny days and cold clear nights. Most of the rain falls from Dec to March. Climate can be divided into these distinct zones:

The Andes and the Altiplano

There is relatively little precipitation on the Altiplano, especially in the dry season – most rainfall is from Dec to March. However, there is periodical, localised rain on high peaks and valleys all year round.

The further south and west you go on the Altiplano, the drier are the conditions; around Uyuni, semi-arid conditions prevail. The Andean sun’s rays are very strong.

Temperature-wise, the Andes and Altiplano experience significant fluctuations over a single day. At 4,000m, the pre-dawn temperature can drop to -15ºC, while noon temperatures at the same location can reach 20ºC.

Southerly cold winds mean the southern Altiplano is not only drier, but also noticeably colder and windier than the north (pre-dawn temperatures at Uyuni in July regularly drop to -20ºC).

On treks in the Cordillera Real in the dry season, expect a range of conditions within a single day: cold/freezing nights at camps above 4,000m (where pre-dawn temperatures sometimes reach -15ºC); warm, spring-like mornings and afternoons; and cold evenings. Conditions are generally dry, but note that mountain weather is fickle and localised, and precipitation is not unusual in the dry season.

Expect temperatures to swing between sun and shade, sheltered and exposed ground and with altitude gain and loss. A quick-setting sun means temperatures drop fast.

The city of La Paz (3,630m) is relatively sheltered. Average high/low temperatures range from 1-17ºC in June and July (coldest months) to 6-19ºC in Nov and Dec (warmest months). In June and July, it rarely rains more than 1 or 2 days per month, while in January there are on average 15 wet days.

The tropical lowlands & yunga (Amazon)

Year-round, weather conditions in the Amazon basin are hot and humid and always with the chance of rain.

There is a  ‘cooler’, drier winter season between May and October. During this ‘dry season’, the average daytime high temperature is between 25-31°C and the average nighttime low is between 16-22°C.

In the dry season, heavy downpours typically occur every few days.

Note that around 80% of annual average rainfall – approx 2,000 mm in Bolivia’s northern lowlands – occurs in the wet season, Nov-April.

On rare occasions, between May and September, cold fronts from Argentina – surazos – can sweep into southwest Amazonia and push temperatures down to 9°C. (Surazos usually last between 1 and 3 days).

The Yungas shares the same dry/wet months but varies from quite wet to very wet depending on whether it is the ‘dry’ or rainy season. Average temperature is 24°C.

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on high peaks in the Andes, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers.

Layers should have the following qualities:

1. Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat);
2. Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
3. Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.

Note that it’s our extremities that stand to suffer the most, and on high Andean peaks the poorly-equipped mountaineer is at risk of becoming frostbitten. Hence, much thought should be given to deciding how best to protect hands, feet and head.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.

Below is a more detailed guide.

Feet

• 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax)
• 4 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
• Trekking boots – should be well broken-in, waterproof and provide good ankle support. Given the extreme cold, plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach) are also required. These are indispensable. (see ‘TECHNICAL KIT’ below)
• Gaiters (1 pair), heavy and large enough to fit over plastic boots.
• Trainers/sandals, for city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.

Legs

• Base layer leggings (1-2 pair).
• Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Trekking trousers (1 pair).
• Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.

Body

• Thermal base layer shirts (2).
• Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
• Shirt/T-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun.
• Fleece jacket or similar (1).
• Warm jacket (down or synthetic) with hood. For camp and upper slopes.
• Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.
• 1-2 sports bras/tanks (for women)

Head and neck

• Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
• Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
• Balaclava/full-face ski mask (1)
• Sunglasses with UV filter and nose and side-pieces.
• 1 pair of glacier compatible sunglasses (full coverage – ask salesperson if you are not sure)
• Scarf for cold.
• Bandanna  – to protect neck from strong sun.
• 1 cap with visor

Hands

For the extreme cold, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:

• 1 pair of Gore-Tex shell gloves
• 2 pairs of removable fleece glove liners
• Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).

Technical kit

• Large backpack (80-90 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• You will need another bag to store belongings left at hotel during expedition.
• Daypack (at least 30 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• Plastic mountaineering boots (you can rent these)
• Crampons, strap-on or step-in (can be rented)
• Walking ice axe (can be rented)
• Pair of telescopic trekking poles. (can be rented).

Other expedition kit

• Sleeping bag – a good warm bag (‘4-season’, minimum) and liner will be necessary for high-altitude camping.
• Sleeping mat, a foam mat is provided
• 2 x water bottles (2 litres each approx).
• Pee bottle.
• Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, general antibiotics (ask your GP), after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
• Towel & wash-kit.
• Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
• Sunscreen (factor 40+) and lip salve.
• Head-lamp (Plus spare bulbs and batteries x 2 at least).
• Penknife.
• Thermos flask (1 litre) Stainless steel.
• Alarm clock.
• Plastic bags ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
• Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
• Book, e-book, mp3 player/ipod or other for free time.
• Binoculars.
• Spanish/English phrasebook.
• Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, e.g. tents, cutlery etc.

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

We pay a fee to the CAA for every licensable passenger we book since we hold an Air Travel Organiser’s Licence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority. In the unlikely event of our insolvency, the CAA will ensure that you are not stranded abroad and will arrange to refund any money you have paid to us for an advance booking.

We also offer ATOL (Civil Aviation Authority) protected holidays to give our customers peace of mind when booking and travelling.

When you buy an ATOL protected air holiday package from Andean Trails Ltd you will receive a Confirmation Invoice from us confirming your arrangements and your protection under our Air Travel Organiser’s Licence number 6275.

You can read more about ATOL, who is covered and what protections you have if not ATOL-covered, on our ATOL page.

What is ATOL?

The CAA’s ATOL scheme offers protection to your money and your holiday if you book with us. Not everybody is covered (see ‘Who is covered?’ for more), as you must purchase an ‘air package holiday’ with Andean Trails to be protected.

And  ‘air package holiday’ is defined as including a flight and some ground services (hotel, transfer, trek etc). This is also known as an ‘ATOL-protected holiday’.

Who is covered?

To be covered by ATOL, you must book a flight and some ground services with us and be from the UK. If you are from the UK and only book ground services and no flights, you are not covered by ATOL (see below for more on how non-ATOL clients are covered).

If you are outside the UK and buy flights with us, you will be ATOL protected IF any of the flights booked with Andean Trails touches/stops in the UK at any point during your holiday package booked with us.

If you buy your flights elsewhere, please check with that agent if you are ATOL protected. Be careful with online flight purchases and make sure you know what protection you have, if any, before paying for flights.

Not all holiday or travel services offered and sold by us will be protected by the ATOL scheme. Please ask us to confirm what protection may apply to your booking.

For land only holidays not involving any air travel, in accordance with “The Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992”, all UK passengers booking with Andean Trails Ltd. are fully protected for the initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all money paid to us, arising from cancellation or curtailment of travel arrangements due to the insolvency of Andean Trails.

I’m not ATOL covered, what protection do I have?

If you are not ATOL covered, any payments you make to us go to a Trust account.

We can only access this money once your tour has been completed, meaning that if anything happens to Andean Trails Limited while you are on holiday, then your money is secure and you can either complete the trip or be able to make it home.

If you pay for your holiday with a credit card, some offer payment protection – please check with your cardholder.

You also should have cancellation protection written into your insurance (which we recommend you have at the time of booking) in case you need to cancel.