Ecuador Volcanoes Climbing Expedition

Arrival day. Make your own way to the hotel.

Overnight in Quito, at Vieja Cuba or similar.

Today our local staff will meet you at 0930 in the morning for a trip  briefing, talking through the programme for the next 13 days. 

Then we set off  on a gentle walking tour to see some of the main colonial churches in the old part of Quito such as Santo Domingo, the Basi­lica and the beautiful San Francisco.

We will also visit the hill of El Panecillo where an impressive statue of the Virgin looks over Quito, and we have fabulous views of this extensive city. Getting out and about and exploring the city is a good way to begin the acclimatisation process. Overnight in Quito, at Vieja Cuba or similar.

Today we set off to the south of the city to climb the fabulous collapsed volcanic crater of Pasochoa.

At 4,200m/13,780ft Pasochoa is a challenge that will get our legs warmed up nicely in anticipation of the adventure ahead. The walk will take us through high altitude pastures, climbing steadily upwards for 3 hours more or less.

From the summit, we have a spectacular view of the mountains around Quito as well as the inspiring scenery of the Pasochoa crater itself. We should be able to see the peaks of: Antisana, Sincholagua, Quilindana, Cotopaxi, Ruminahui, Corazon and the twin Iliniza peaks, north and south.

Return to Quito and overnight in Vieja Cuba or similar

Today we set off for the nearby peak of Rucu Pichincha, that towers over the city of Quito. 

Using the cable car we rise gently above the city, until the top station, to an altitude of 4,000m / 13,200ft from where we start today´s hike.

Rucu Pichincha (4,690m / 15,400 ft) is an excellent second acclimatization hike. Rucu is just one of the three major peaks that make up the Pichincha massive. Quito is built on the slopes of the eastern side of this massif.

The hike is straightforward and should take us 4 to 5 hours in total.

After the walk we return to our hotel in Quito for the night.

We leave Quito after breakfast at 0830 and drive northwards towards Cayambe (5,790m /18,996ft).

Cayambe is a massive glaciated extinct volcano. It is located about 70km north east of Quito and is the highest point on the surface of the earth through which the Equator directly passes, and the third highest mountain in Ecuador.

Cayambe is the perfect peak for us to practise ice climbing skills on the glaciers. There is excellent access to the glaciers from the comfortable mountain hut which is at 4,600m / 15,088 ft. We will settle in then head out and practise our skills. The crevasses, complex icefalls and seracs provide an ideal setting for learning some ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and a variety of other basic skills.

Night at the Cayambe hut, shared rooms.

Today is spent on the Cayambe glaciers, learning and revising some essential mountaineering skills.  

During the glacier training on Cayambe we will look at the following:

• Snow climbing, ice axe positioning
• Self arrest techniques
• Ice climbing (with top rope) and crampon techniques
• Prussiking
• Roped glacier travel
• High altitude physiology

After our session on the mountain we head back to the hut for some hot food and rest. Night at Cayambe hut

If conditions are good today we have the opportunity to attempt the climb to the summit of Cayambe.

The route we take to the summit follows diverse glacier terrain to near the summit crater. Conditions on the mountain change and sometimes a gaping bergschrund presents a challenge in route finding and an exciting extra obstacle. The ascent normally takes seven hours and the descent three hours.

After our summit day on Cayambe we descend to Hacienda Guachala for the night, or similar.

Today is an easy day as we pack up then set off southwards to drive to the Cotopaxi area.

We will stop on off the way for lunch in a restaurant .

Overnight Tambopaxi lodge or similar. Shared rooms.

Today we set of up the mountainside. We drive to 4,600m /15,091 ft and then walk to the Cotopaxi mountain hut at 4,800m / 15,700 ft.

Having arrived at the hut at lunchtime, we rest for the afternoon and evening, preparing ourselves for the night time climb.

Cotopaxi is one of the most beautiful mountains of the Andes of Ecuador, a classic conical volcano. The Cotopaxi national park is known for its rich wildlife and high altitude remote plains and peaks.  Cotopaxi is a popular peak for climber and has the highest number of clear days of the high peaks of Ecuador.

Night at Jose Rivas refuge, the Cotopaxi hut at 4,800 m / 15,700 ft. Shared dorm room.

Today is Cotopaxi summit day (5,897 m / 19,300 ft.)

After a short sleep we have breakfast then leave the hut at around 0100. We set off with head torches, starting with a walk over morraine to the start of the glacier. We stop and put our crampons and harnesses on, and rope up.

We are now on Cotopaxi’s large featureless glacier and we weave our way steadily upwards, around crevasses.

The final section is tougher as it gets steeper. We arrive at the summit crater at dawn.

We rope up for protection and safety from crevasses and also to provide protection on the steeper sections. The ascent normally takes between six to seven hours and the descent, two to three hours.

Night in Banos. (B,L,D)

It feels good to be at lower altitudes.

Today is a day of rest and for some easy walking in the warm valleys and gullies that this town is well known for.

Night at hotel. (1,900 m/6,332 ft)  (B,L, D)

Today we head back to the high altitudes of Ecuador’s volcanoes.

We’ll drive to the Plaza Roja (4,852m / 15,914 ft) located high on the side of Chimborazo, very close to the Carrel hut.

From the hut it takes us about two to three hours to walk to our camp at 5,350m /17,300ft,  where we spend the afternoon preparing for the climb.

We will all help with carrying equipment to the camp. Porters will help carrying the tents and water. Night camping. 

Today is Chimborazo summit day (6,310m/ 20,696ft).

We start the climb at about midnight and follow upwards on the glacier until it joins Castle ridge (5,450m / 17,876 ft.).

We take this variation on the normal Castle route as it is generally free from rock fall, making it a much safer line to the top.

From camp it normally takes  six to eight hours or so to get to the main Whymper summit. The scene from the top is the most amazing view of Ecuador.

Descent to camp takes from two to three hours. After returning to camp we rest a little before continuing on downwards to Plaza Roja. Night camping, mountain hut or return to the valleys, hotel. (B,L,D)

This is a buffer day. In case of bad weather, we have added this day to allow a second chance at the summit.

Hotel, Quito.

Important note: This itinerary is a guide line and in the case of unforeseen circumstances we may have to make changes.

Tour ends after breakfast.

Ecuador is the second smallest South American country, and one of the most varied.

It comprises three main geographical areas: the coast, highlands and Amazon plus is home to the Galapagos Islands.

Because of its relatively compact size, it makes a great holiday destination as you can move from highlight to highlight fairly easily and rapidly.

Landscapes vary from the drier south to the more humid north.

The Highlands, or sierra, encompass two Andean Cordilleras (the Central and Western), which run north to south through the country. Ecuador’s largest volcano is Chimborazo (6,310m) whose summit, because of its proximity to the equator, is the closest point on earth to the sun. Several of Ecuador’s volcanoes are still active, and it’s a great area for trekking.

Descending the steep, east-facing slopes of the eastern Cordillera, one passes through a transition zone comprising dense cloud forest and humid high jungle, before entering the Amazon lowlands.

This mainly primary rainforest covers a third of the country, accounts for 5% of the population and stretches across Ecuador, from its Colombian to its Peruvian borders.

The Galapagos Islands are simply unique. Lying 600 miles off the mainland, the archipelago comprises the summits of gigantic equatorial volcanoes.

The flora and fauna of the Galapagos, long separated from their continental cousins, have evolved differently. Charles Darwin used his observations there to develop his theory of Evolution.

Ecuador lies between latitudes 4º south and 2º north. Overall, climate varies according to time of year, altitude and region.

In the Ecuadorian highlands, there is little temperature variation by season; this depends largely on altitude.

In Quito, shade temperatures range from 6 to 10ºC in the morning and from 19 to 23ºC in the afternoon, with cool nights. In the lower intermontane basins, it gets significantly warmer.

Rainfall depends on whether an area lies closer to the eastern or western Andes. To the west, June to Sept is the dry period and Oct to May the wet (with often a short, dry spell in Dec or Jan).

The best period to visit Quito and trek and climb volcanoes such as Cotopaxi is the west Andean dry season of June to Sept and Dec/Jan. This is also Ecuador’s high season. During the Oct to May wet season, most rainfall is in the afternoons.

To the east, Oct to Feb are dry and March to Sept are wet. Overall, the southern highlands are drier than the northern highlands.

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

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When you buy an ATOL protected air holiday package from Andean Trails Ltd you will receive a Confirmation Invoice from us confirming your arrangements and your protection under our Air Travel Organiser’s Licence number 6275.

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And  ‘air package holiday’ is defined as including a flight and some ground services (hotel, transfer, trek etc). This is also known as an ‘ATOL-protected holiday’.

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To be covered by ATOL, you must book a flight and some ground services with us and be from the UK. If you are from the UK and only book ground services and no flights, you are not covered by ATOL (see below for more on how non-ATOL clients are covered).

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For land only holidays not involving any air travel, in accordance with “The Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992”, all UK passengers booking with Andean Trails Ltd. are fully protected for the initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all money paid to us, arising from cancellation or curtailment of travel arrangements due to the insolvency of Andean Trails.

I’m not ATOL covered, what protection do I have?

If you are not ATOL covered, any payments you make to us go to a Trust account.

We can only access this money once your tour has been completed, meaning that if anything happens to Andean Trails Limited while you are on holiday, then your money is secure and you can either complete the trip or be able to make it home.

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You also should have cancellation protection written into your insurance (which we recommend you have at the time of booking) in case you need to cancel.

In large cities such as Quito and Guayaquil, you should guard against bag snatching, bag slashing and pick-pocketing.

Highway robbery should also be guarded against. We strongly recommend you take the following precautions:

• Leave paper valuables in the hotel safe (caja fuerte), taking only what you need for the day.
• Carry a copy of your passport, leaving original in safe along with your air tickets. N.B. When travelling, carry paper valuables in a money belt under clothing, not in a ‘bum-bag’.
• Special care is needed downtown in large cities, where you should consider not taking a daypack unless accompanied. We suggest you secure this, and have your camera in the bag.
• If alone, consider avoiding downtown Quito Old City and all city parks at night. Be very careful around the Mariscal district of the New City (where most of the hotels are) especially at night. Avoid quiet streets or streets with poor lighting. Always take a taxi to the door of your hotel at night.
• In fact, especially if alone; it’s best to use taxis at night, wherever you are.
• In Quito and elsewhere in Ecuador, always take special care in markets, on busy streets, in bus stations and on buses. Where possible, avoid carrying a bag or valuables in these areas, as bag snatchers and pickpockets operate.
• Beware of the distraction techniques of con men/women, especially in crowded areas.
• NEVER leave your bag(s) unattended, especially in airports, bus terminals and hotel lobbies.
• Where possible, try to avoid inter-city travel by night.