Climb Aconcagua, 360 Route

Join the tour in Mendoza, where you will be met at the airport.

From your arrival in Mendoza on day one until departing Mendoza on day 20, an English-speaking guide will be on hand to provide information and iron out any problems.

We drive you to your hotel in a private vehicle and after you rest, you can meet the guide that will check your equipment. You can rent any extra kit required in Mendoza if needs be. Either this evening or tomorrow morning, we’ll sort out our Aconcagua climbing permits.

You have the chance to taste the delicious argentine “asado” (barbecued meat) and wonderful wines from Mendoza. There are numerous alternatives for those who do not drink wine or eat red meats. Dinner in Argentina is usually around 9:00 P.M.

Afterwards, there is a group meal (not included, scheduled for about 21.00) where you can talk about the challenge ahead and get to know your trekking mates. (1 night hotel, no meals included)

Today it’s most likely that we’ll get the permits sorted.

Then, our van drives us and our kit to a small town on the way to the start of our expeditions, called Penitentes (2,700m/8,858ft).

Here we organise mule loads, and spend the night.

After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park, Punta de Vacas.

Here the horsemen load the equipment on the mules and we set off for our walk to Base Camp, which takes three days.

The trek today is mainly flat as we enter the broad and colourful Vacas Valley. You’ll need a sunhat on, as the sun can be strong here.

Today we trek from four to five hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2,950m/9,678ft).

At Pampa de Leñas,we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and we assemble the tents for our first night camping under the stars.

After breakfast and breaking camp, we cross a bridge 500m upstream from the camp, heading up the east side of the Vacas Valley.

This is a good and easily followed path to Casa de Piedra (3,240m/10,630ft), our next camp.

It is here that the Relinchos valley joins the main Vacas Valley.

We also pass through the Quebrada de Vacas, catching our first sight of Aconcagua’s western face – stunning.

Six to seven hours’ walk today approx. then make camp.

From Casa de Piedra, we cross the Rio de las Vacas, which is sure to cool the feet and wake you up this morning!

We continue walking up the Relinchos valley on a good but steep path, with occasional glimpses of Aconcagua.

We cross the Relinchos river twice and following a wide valley to Plaza Argentina, six to seven hours’ walk approx. You’ll notice that we start to say goodbye to vegetation as we climb towards Aconcagua’s glaciers.

Plaza Argentina is our base camp, set amongst amongst the moraines of the Relinchos Glacier (4,200m/13,780ft).

Note: This is the highest point to which the mules go. From here we carry our own equipment with the help of porters (who carry the tents) as we proceed up the mountain.

At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day for acclimatisation.

This is a good opportunity to get to know the camp, take a shower and explore the area. We get together with the guide, do a medical check, reorganise and review our equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and food for transportation for the next day.

Note: There are two buffer days available during this trek to allow for acclimatisation and poor weather.

This is an acclimatisation day, following the adage of walk high and sleep low so that we can get used to these higher altitudes.

It’s also a practical day, as we carry some of our food and fuel for later in the climb to camp 1.

We ferry our supplies up the mountain in a gradual way, so as to keep backpack weights as light as possible at all times. Having said that, you will carry a heavy pack today as take up food and fuel.

We return to Plaza Argentina for a good feed and to relax after a six hour walking day.

Rest day at base camp, relaxing and recharging energy. Eat a lot, drink a lot, relax.

We start the ascent to the summit today, leaving basecamp and heading to camp 1.

It will feel more like the start of the expedition to the summit today as we leave kit behind and take only what we need.

We know the route as we are repeating the first section of the Polish Route, to get to camp 1.

It’s five to six hour walking on easy terrain to camp 1, where this time we set up camp and stay to sleep (5,000m/16,404ft).

Here, we amalgamate today’s loads with those we carried up before, assemble the camp and divide the loads to carry tomorrow.

We continue with our gradual acclimatisation to the altitude.

During this carry of supplies to high camp 2, we reach a level of 5,500m.

This is a hard day for most trekkers, with about six hours of walking.

The terrain is easy, but you will probably feel the altitude at these heights. We return to camp 1 to recover from this first exposure to walking up high.

Note:  The whole ascent is non-technical. The main difficulties are caused by altitude and, potentially, acute meteorological conditions. We will be very prudent in this regard. Certain signs (e.g. the presence of lenticular clouds, denoting strong winds and changing conditions) could mean abandoning ascent or turning back. There may be a variety of points of view within a group, but the guides’ decisions are always final.

Today we relax, conserving energy, eating and hydrating.

This is an extremely important rest day.

We ascend from camp 1 to camp 2 following the Ameghino Traverse Route.

Once again, we amalgamate today’s loads with those we carried the day before, assemble the camp and divide the loads to carry tomorrow.

We rest and have dinner, tonight we are sleeping at 5,500m / 18,045ft.

Today sees us climb for four hours to the next camp at around 6,000m/19,685ft.

Early morning, after breakfast and breaking camp, we start ascending. The climb is diagonal and towards the right hand side to start.

Camp 3 is at the same height as the Berlin refuge (on the Normal Route), strategically situated because it is so close to the Normal Route, and for its altitude and shelter from from the wind.

From there, we have superb views of the highest peaks around.

We place our last high altitude camp here, the guide individually reviews each member of the group and gives his final recommendations. We also plan the final strategy for the last day of ascent to assure success in reaching the summit.

Summit day. We begin our climb very early, aiming to reach the summit by noon approximately.

The summit (6,962m/22,841ft) is reached after some 8-10 hours ascent from camp, and this is the toughest day of the trek.

The south face (3,000m) is directly below us as we climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge.

Then we ascend through the “Portezuelo del Viento”, climb “La Canaleta”, and then the “Filo del Guanaco” that finally leads us to the summit. The prize is waiting for us, a 360° view.

The last 200 metres of the climb are extremely strenuous because of loose scree and strong winds. We carry crampons with us in case there is hard snow on this section.

Once we reach the summit, there is time to get the camera out and get the all important picture before we head back down to the Cólera camp with success in our back pocket.

Note 1: The whole ascent is non-technical. The main difficulties are caused by altitude and, potentially, acute meteorological conditions. We will be very prudent in this regard. Certain signs (e.g. the presence of lenticular clouds, denoting strong winds and changing conditions) could mean abandoning ascent or turning back. There may be a variety of points of view within a group, but the guides’ decisions are always final.

Note 2:  Above 6,400 metres hard snow is sometimes encountered (varies from year to year). It is when you encounter these conditions that the crampons (both step-in or strap-on are OK, depending on boot type & personal preference) and ice axe (walking axe – 60-75 cm long) come into their own. Snow-covered areas tend to be short and intermittent (maybe 150 metres of crampon-wearing at a time) and gradients are typically around 30 degrees. Fixed ropes are not used, and you will rarely be roped up. If at any stage you are very tired or unsure of your footing, a guide may short-rope you (ropes are provided by us). The final 200m of ascent to the summit is on loose scree and is very tiring but not in itself dangerous. Crampons and ice axe may only be used for one day on Aconcagua.

Buffer days. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for summiting.

Note: Tour may end on Day 17 or 18 if no buffer days are used. Extra nights’ hotel and meals in Mendoza not included.

Descend to Plaza de Mulas base camp, the largest camp on Aconcagua!

With the summit in the bag, and your ‘extra’ that was left at first base camp transported to Plazas de Mulas, it’s time to celebrate.

Look back for new views to the summit of Aconcagua – especially the West Face – and look forward to a celebratory dinner for all back in the comforts of the basecamp.

We have breakfast and then start the descent from Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes.

Our private transport is waiting to take us back to the hotel in Mendoza.

The end of our tour – continue your travels or transfer out to the airport.

Argentina is a land of contrast.

Nothing states this better than the fact it features the highest point in the South America, Aconcagua, and the lowest, Salinas Chicas, 40m below sea level.

Its vastness – it is the eighth largest country in the world – and diversity are just part of the appeal. A fantastic culture of fine wine and dining sits alongside its adventurous and beautiful landscapes.

The local’s cheery disposition and fantastic word plays add to the enjoyment of being in this fascinating country.

The name Argentina derives from argentinos, the Ancient Greek diminutive (tinos) form for silver (argentos), which is what early Spanish explorers sought when they first reached the region in the sixteenth century.

There are distinct regions of Argentina, from the Andean culture of the North West to the rancho lifestyle of the plains of Patagonia to the eternally seductive Buenos Aires.

Argentina’s neighbours are Bolivia, Brazil, and Paraguay to the north, Uruguay to the north east and Chile to the west. In the east Argentina has a long South Atlantic Ocean coastline.

The central region of Argentina is the rich plain known as La Pampa.

There is jungle in the extreme northeast while the southern half of Argentina is dominated by the flat to rolling plateau of Patagonia.

The western border with Chile is along the rugged Andes mountains, including Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside the Himalayas. Close to Aconcagua lies Mendoza, an area famed for its fine wine production.

The western Cuyo regions at the base of the Andes are mostly rocky desert.

Most Antarctic cruises embark and disembark in Ushuaia, at the tip of South America, allowing access to the South Pole, South Georgia and also the Falkland Islands.

Climate:

This itinerary takes place within a narrow band of latitudes (32° to 34° south), but covers a very wide range of altitudes.

It also traverses many geographic and climatic zones, from the sun-baked streets of Santiago and Mendoza (both just a few hundred metres above sea level) to Cerro Aconcagua (6,959 metres), on whose upper slopes extreme cold and winds are the norm.

(N.B. All departures coincide with the southern hemisphere summer. Text below refers to this season).

Temperatures

Temperatures are very different during the day or the night. This is a guideline:

Approach:                      Night 0ºC;                     Day 20 to 30ºC

Base camp:                    Night -10ºC;                   Day 10 to 20ºC

High camps:                   Night -20ºC;                  Day -10 to 10ºC

Extreme temperatures: Minimum -30ºC                Maximum 42ºC

Be aware that Aconcagua is a windy mountain and chill factor should be considered.

The Andes: Much of this itinerary takes place above 4,000 metres, and extended periods are spent above 5,000m.

Climatic conditions in the Central High Andes of Chile and Argentina usually originate in the Pacific Ocean anticyclone. The humid westerly air currents that it sends inland collide with the Andes and, from time to time, bring severe conditions. Cerro Aconcagua, due to its great altitude and bulk, is especially susceptible, and periodically its upper slopes (above 5,200m) get buffeted by 150kph winds. Such conditions will often create a vast lenticular cloud above the summit. Even when the conditions at Plaza de Mulas camp (4,200m) appear fine and windless, the presence of this cloud formation signifies strong winds, extreme cold and snowstorms high on the mountain. It is also a sign that the upper mountain should be abandoned.

Summer temperatures of minus 30°C high on Aconcagua are not unusual. Just before dawn at our high camps in-tent temperatures commonly reach minus 15 or minus 20°C, and near the summit, wind chill can lower temperatures to minus 40°C. Very high up on Aconcagua, temperatures never get very high. Even at base camp (4,200m), rare southerly winds sometimes bring temperatures of minus 18°C. Severe electrical storms are another (occasional) summer phenomenon, and should not be underestimated.

Nevertheless, summer days and nights on Aconcagua can also be relatively tame. On still days at noon, it might be possible to hang around base camp in a bathing suit! On particularly benign, windless days, it is sometimes feasible to stand on Aconcagua’s summit at noon wearing only a few layers. The fickle – and often localised – nature of Aconcagua’s climate, means nothing should be taken for granted. Frostbite and hypothermia are risks for the under-equipped mountaineer; it is important to pack for the worst conditions.

On the lower slopes of Aconcagua conditions are less extreme and unpredictable, but nevertheless prone to fickleness. Below 4,200m, afternoons are generally warm with a lot of sunshine. On Aconcagua, the sun is extremely strong and burns very quickly. At lower camps on Aconcagua (around 3,300m) days are warm to hot and nights, cool to cold. At base camp, Aconcagua (around 4,200m) expect warm days and freezing nights. Note that at altitude, temperatures vary sharply between sun and shade and between sheltered and exposed ground. Also with height gain and loss.

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on Aconcagua layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers. Layers should have the following qualities:

1. Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat);
2. Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
3. Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.
Note that it’s our extremities that stand to suffer the most, and on Aconcagua the poorly-equipped mountaineer is at risk of becoming frostbitten. Hence, much thought should be given to deciding how best to protect hands, feet and head.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.

Below is a more detailed guide.

Feet

• 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax)
• 5 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
• Trekking boots – should be well broken-in, waterproof and provide good ankle support. Given the extreme conditions on Aconcagua, plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach) are also required. These are indispensable above Nido de Condores camp (see ‘TECHNICAL KIT’ below)
• Gaiters (1 pair).
• Trainers/Sandals For city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.

Legs

• Base layer leggings (1 pair).
• Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
• Trekking trousers (1 pair).
• Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.

Body

• Thermal base layer shirts (2).
• Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
• Shirt/T-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun.
• Fleece jacket or similar (1).
• Warm jacket (down or synthetic). For camp and upper slopes.
• Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.

Head and neck

• Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
• Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
• Balaclava/full-face ski mask (1)
• Sunglasses with UV filter and nose and side-pieces.
• Ski goggles.
• Scarf for cold.
• Bandanna  – to protect neck from strong sun.

Hands

For the extreme cold of Aconcagua, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:

• Light inner gloves (2 pairs) Polypropelene.
• Warm gloves (2 pairs) E.g. fleece.
• Outer waterproof gloves or mittens (1 pair)
• Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).

Technical kit

• Large backpack (80-90 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover. For carrying loads high on Aconcagua, as well as for transportation of belongings by mule between lower camps.
• You will need another bag to store belongings left at Mendoza hotel during expedition.
• Daypack (at least 30 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
• Plastic mountaineering boots (you can rent these in Mendoza at extra cost)
• Crampons, strap-on or step-in (can be rented in Mendoza)
• Walking ice axe (can be rented in Mendoza)
• Pair of telescopic trekking poles. (can be rented in Mendoza).

Other expedition kit

• Sleeping bag – a good warm bag (‘4-season’, minimum) and liner will be necessary for high-altitude camping.
• Sleeping mat, a foam mat is provided
• Water bottle (2 litres approx).
• Pee bottle.
• Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, general antibiotics (ask your GP), after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
• Towel & wash-kit.
• Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
• Sunscreen (factor 40+) and lip salve.
• Head-lamp (Plus spare bulb and batteries).
• Penknife.
• Thermos flask (1 litre) Stainless steel.
• Alarm clock.
• Plastic bags ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
• Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
• Book, e-book, mp3 player/ipod or other for free time.
• Binoculars.
• Spanish/English phrasebook.
• Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, but please bring plastic plate, cup and cutlery.

Andean Trails has 25 years of experience of putting together the best South America holidays.

We pay a fee to the CAA for every licensable passenger we book since we hold an Air Travel Organiser’s Licence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority. In the unlikely event of our insolvency, the CAA will ensure that you are not stranded abroad and will arrange to refund any money you have paid to us for an advance booking.

We also offer ATOL (Civil Aviation Authority) protected holidays to give our customers peace of mind when booking and travelling.

When you buy an ATOL protected air holiday package from Andean Trails Ltd you will receive a Confirmation Invoice from us confirming your arrangements and your protection under our Air Travel Organiser’s Licence number 6275.

You can read more about ATOL, who is covered and what protections you have if not ATOL-covered, on our ATOL page.

What is ATOL?

The CAA’s ATOL scheme offers protection to your money and your holiday if you book with us. Not everybody is covered (see ‘Who is covered?’ for more), as you must purchase an ‘air package holiday’ with Andean Trails to be protected.

And  ‘air package holiday’ is defined as including a flight and some ground services (hotel, transfer, trek etc). This is also known as an ‘ATOL-protected holiday’.

Who is covered?

To be covered by ATOL, you must book a flight and some ground services with us and be from the UK. If you are from the UK and only book ground services and no flights, you are not covered by ATOL (see below for more on how non-ATOL clients are covered).

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For land only holidays not involving any air travel, in accordance with “The Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992”, all UK passengers booking with Andean Trails Ltd. are fully protected for the initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all money paid to us, arising from cancellation or curtailment of travel arrangements due to the insolvency of Andean Trails.

I’m not ATOL covered, what protection do I have?

If you are not ATOL covered, any payments you make to us go to a Trust account.

We can only access this money once your tour has been completed, meaning that if anything happens to Andean Trails Limited while you are on holiday, then your money is secure and you can either complete the trip or be able to make it home.

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